Steps in Building SCAMP
- What's a SCAMP and why am I building one?
- Drafting and Cutting the plywood
- I continue to lay out and cut the plywood pieces
- Making the SCAMP mast/cutting lots of strips
- Making the centreboard
- Centreboard pivot and details
- Making the SCAMP rudder
- Extra details on shaping the rudder
- Making the Rudder Case
- Making the support cradle/frame
- Bottom and centreboard case + bulkheads 4 - 7
- Turning SCAMP over
- Turning SCAMP over
- Finishing Bottom
- Stem, bulkheads 1 - 3 and mast trunk
- Water tight (I hope) doors for the hatches
- Working on back and transom
- Installing the side planking
- Fore and side decks
- Installing the bow eye
- Side benches/ hatches
- Making the portholes/deadlights
- Under cockpit compartment and ballast tank
- Installing the 2 layers of the floor.
- Oar Socket Placement
- Making the tiller
Installing Oar Locks Sockets
Scamp is a bit small to get an outboard motor but needs some way of moving when there is no wind.
No one will ever call the Scamp Sailboat a fine rowing craft, but, it can be moved quite adequately with oars.
Many Scamp builders have added a small piece of wood along the seat side to support a rowing seat.
I but a board across the seats and pretended to row. I guess the main thing to remember is to put the oars back enough so that you don't bang your head against the cuddy roof when rowing. Since you can adjust where the seat goes that is not an issue. I chose a spot that seems to work.
I had bought 2 sets of bronze sockets when I built my Skerry Sailboat It rows quite nicely and offers 2 rowing position in case the weight balance is off with passengers. I never added the second position so I had the hardware.
I was not happy just screwing the sockets onto the coaming cap. The Scamp is quite heavy and the oars can put quite a lot of stress on the coaming. I decided to reinforce it. Many people have added supports for their oar sockets so I had a look at what others had done and where they had placed their oars.
In the end I decided to put a simple angled piece. As it turns out there is nothing simple about the spot. There is not a single right angle except for the bottom of the coaming cap.
I used the gradual approximation method and gradually cut the angles and cut out to fit it against the boat. A small amount of space is fine because epoxy likes loose joints. A tightly clamped epoxy joint is weaker than a loosely clamped one because it get starved of glue.
I tried my piece for dry fitting and found that there was a gap front and back along the plywood of the coaming. This was caused by the curve of the coaming. I used chisel then sander to curve the back of the reinforcing piece. It fit much better with a small amount of material taken off the back to accommodate the curve. This is a view from the bottom. The piece is just about 3/16 th thicker than the coaming cap and sticks out. I had scored a 5/4 piece of wood and it had dressed to just over an inch. I like that it's thicker because it will help support the coaming. I don't have any screws in it at this point.
After checking one last time that the position was the same on both sides, I mixed the epoxy and glued the support piece in place. There was a satisfactory amount of squeezed out epoxy.
I think I might be able to put a small ring or cleat on it to hold maybe a bumper of other "stuff."
This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view. I record the process I have followed and the result. I am not saying that it is the right or best way.