My Puddle Duck Racer goes 3-D
- Part One, What's a Puddle Duck? and I get Started
- My Puddle Duck Racer goes 3D It's official, I get my hull number.
- Next, I add flotation compartment.
- Daggerboard case and seat get made.
- Bottom gets fiberglassed and Gunnels are added.
- My PDR gets a mast step, plus side and front decks and more glass
- Making the daggerboard.
- Adding weight to the daggerboard
- Making the kick up rudder along with a tiller.
- I made a wooden sprit
- Finishing the carbon fibre mast I made a few years ago.
- Finally Finishing the hull
- The Duck gets some hardware
- I make a Sail for the Puddle Duck
- My Puddle Duck Gets Launched!!
The strip of wood (the chine logs) on the back panel sticks out beyond the bottom of the boat because the bottom does not meet the back at a right angle and my chine log is at a right angle, so it needs to be trimmed. There are various angles where the sticks meet so a few places have to be fitted. I used a combination of plane and belt sander. This occurs because I used a square piece of wood and the back and bottom meet at an angle. I could have cut the wood at an angle but this is easier.
The sides and the box and stern have been glued. I am using epoxy thickened with a mixture of silica and sawdust. The whole assembly is pretty wobbly at this point but the corners are well glued. Although I use epoxy, many people have tried Polyurethane Glues such as PL Premium. It works well particularly if there are screws to clamp the pieces. Read my page on PU glue.
The front and back panels are ready and I lay everything out flat in position. I then glue and clamp the pieces in place. Not too hard but the angles need to be square. I checked before I let it set.
Some people use screws that get removed after the glue has set.
I squared the frame, and carefully put the bottom on but with no glue yet. I made sure the bottom was still square then put a few temporary screws in to check the fit. Since my bottom is oversize I don't have to worry about lining it up perfectly.
In the world of Puddle Duck Racers, once you have assembled your basic hull you say it is 3-D. You then take a photo and send it to Shorty at the pdr official website and he assigns you a hull number.
When I screwed the bottom on, I used little squares of plywood to prevent the screw from marking the bottom. After allowing the epoxy to set up I removed the screws and the little plywood squares. Some had gotten glued on but I used an old chisel and knocked them off.
I used the router with a cutting bit and a guide bearing to cut the bottom even to the sides. I used my Makita router to cut the bottom to size on the sides since they are at right angle. The front and back I cut with a japanese saw. I then used the orbital sander to smooth out the cuts. I now have a bottom that fits perfectly.
I expect I will round the edges slightly because I plan to use very thin fiberglass cloth on the bottom and bring it over to the sides about an inch. My boat club is quite rough on boat bottoms.
Being an old fart who has tinkered all her life, I'm lucky to have a good collection of tools. This is not necessary for building a Puddle Duck Racer. If I had to list the basic minimum required I would say, a jig saw, screw driver, a caulking gun if you plan to use pl premium glue, a drill is nice, a random orbital sander is nice, a small block plane is useful to trim the angle of the boards to fit the boat together but I suppose you could sand it with coarse paper, clamps and more clamps, a measuring tape, a square, rubber gloves for epoxy, painting supplies. It's useful to know someone who has a table saw to cut down lumber and help make masts and spars. Access to a computer is also useful because there is lots of info online and many Puddle Duck Videos on Youtube.
This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view.